Sustainable Fashion: A Service to the Planet or Just Another Fad?
Artwork by Danie Drankwalter
Environmentalism is in this season.
Within the past year, there has been a drastic shift towards conscious consumption, as the realization of irreversible environmental damage settles in. Young people are increasingly veering away from supporting industries such as fast fashion due to wasteful and excess consumerism. Despite these efforts, The Pretty Planeteer says 13 million tons of textile waste are still being produced globally every year — 95% of which could be recycled. Getting lost in the uprising of these “eco-fads” is an honest evaluation of whether or not these actions are actually helping our environment, or just plastering the pride of humanity with performative sustainability.
I don’t think people really know all the facts about the fashion industry’s environmental agenda, and what it means to be a conscious consumer. The rise of these eco-fads has us questioning whether or not our decisions are actually helping the planet, or just making us feel better about ourselves.
As consumers, we are drawn to making decisions which benefit the environment, but unfortunately not all “eco-conscious” decisions actually yield the benefits that people think they do. Any Gen Z’er would say they are prepared to endorse a brand that promotes sustainability and appears to be socially conscious, making us more susceptible to the power companies possess when marketing their products to us. They understand the role we, as consumers, play in making or breaking them, handing them a financial incentive to make their products appear more eco and socially conscious. Technically speaking, using recycled materials is a form of sustainability. Using biodegradable materials in your design is a form of sustainability. So, therefore brands who are doing the bare minimum can claim that they are, in fact, sustainable — when in reality, the majority of their supply chain is nowhere near sustainable. It is essential that we understand the facade of the fashion industry’s eco-agenda, and the adverse effects of greenwashing.
Over the years, there has been a detrimental rise in sustainable fashion consumption. The 2019 Pulse Score report showed that 75% of consumers view sustainability as very vital to them. However, there is a significant correlation between wealth, privilege and purchasing sustainable clothing. The most apparent barriers are through financial means, and the rise of eco-conscious brands characterized by their higher prices. The price difference between a sustainable brand and a fast fashion brand is staggering. This surge in price is worth it. Materials are more durable and recyclable, whilst workers are also paid fairly for their labor - resulting in higher production costs. Whilst this may be a win for the environment, it is a loss for people who cannot afford to spend that much money on a piece of clothing. Being broke is a temporary state. Poverty, on the other hand, is a systemic and challenging position to flee. We have to stop blaming poor people for the consumption of fast fashion, as if middle and upper class people aren’t the ones keeping the system alive. The people who are buying from fast fashion stores because they can’t afford anything else are not the same people who are buying excessively, so it really isn’t fair to justify your regular fast fashion hauls on the fact that you are broke. Fast fashion is unavoidable, overconsumption isn’t.
So, what about thrifting? It is an easy method of reducing textile waste and helings the environment. However, the very nature of a thrift store is extremely dependent on external factors, meaning that it isn’t always accessible to everyone. The recent popularization of thrifting has also led to a surge in prices, affordability and spending habits. Thrifting culture actually shifts the conversation to quantity over quality. High transaction utility is a term which describes the satisfaction a consumer receives from their perceived value of the deal. Its participation in thrifting can actually lead to an increase in purchases — eco-friendly or not. Overconsumption works strongly against the eco-conscious agenda thrifters seem to preach. Popularizing the fact that only shopping at thrift stores is “saving the planet,” only seems like a remedy for guilt-free consumerist shopping that we so often try hiding under the woke ruse.
I don't necessarily believe that being a conscious consumer means that you have to swear off fast fashion forever, or shop exclusively from sustainable brands. Instead, it’s about making informed decisions about where your clothes are coming from — buying less and caring for your clothes so they last longer. Chasing after the trendy green image inhibits us from making rational environmental decisions. Larger corporations see eco-fads as a chance to harvest the rewards of cultivating a green image. Ultimately, it is time for a collective reform. Keep addressing and questioning the broken clothing industry, fragilities of wokeness, and Gen Z’s approach towards achieving environmental consciousness.